Te Wai Pounamu Revisited

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Revisiting Te Wai Pounamu begins with a hike across remote Stewart Island, followed by a brief sea kayak tour of Paterson Inlet. The journey then continues on the Dusky Track in Fiordland National Park, a stark contrast to the busier Great Walks like Milford and Routeburn, offering a challenging and solitary experience. Progressing northward, the author hikes the Heaphy Track, the last of the Great Walks he explores, which is reserved for walkers in summer, with a mountain bike tour available in winter. The Heaphy Track features a stunning section along the Tasman coast that can be enjoyed as a day walk. After a visit to Karamea, located at the end of the world’s longest cul-de-sac, the Wangapeka Track serves as a return route to Nelson. The adventure culminates in Picton, where a five-day sea kayak tour of Queen Charlotte Sound awaits, showcasing dolphins, penguins, and wekas. This narrative captures a New Zealand that lies beyond typical tourist paths, yet remains accessible. Lee Traynor shares his two-month journey across these tracks, providing detailed travel and accommodation insights, along with practical advice for organizing expeditions without the need for a rental vehicle.