Tato autorka zkoumá módu jako formu uměleckého vyjádření, která odráží společenské a kulturní trendy. Její práce se zaměřuje na historický vývoj oděvu a jeho vliv na vizuální kulturu. Prostřednictvím hloubkové analýzy a kurátorského přístupu odhaluje komplexní vztahy mezi textilem, tělem a identitou. Důraz je kladen na pochopení módy nejen jako trendu, ale jako zásadního sociálního a estetického fenoménu.
Historický vývoj, detailní vyobrazení i příběhy slavných návrhářů Tato ambiciózní a fascinující kniha se vydává po stopách dějin módy do všech částí světa od nařasených řecko-římských oděvů a hedvábných dvorních šatů čínské dynastie Tchang k současným návrhářům sportovních oděvů a japonské streetové kultuře. Příběh módy je zpracován chronologicky a popisuje vývoj módy období za obdobím a trend za trendem. Podrobné časové osy nabízejí historický a kulturní kontext. Móda je nepostradatelná pro každého, kdo miluje velké večerní šaty, prvotřídní obleky, raduje se z páru skvělých bot nebo se jen zkrátka rád obléká.
Dress and adornment have long played an important role in the visual allure of dance, and fashion designers have often been inspired by the way dancers look. The tutus and pointe shoes of the Romantic ballerina, for example, have influenced designers from Christian Dior to Christian Louboutin. Cristóbal Balenciaga was inspired by the drama of flamenco, Yves Saint Laurent by the Orientalism of the Ballet Russes, and Rick Owens by the dynamism of African-American steppers. Fashion designers are also increasingly collaborating with choreographers to create stylish new dance costumes—from the “bump” dresses by Comme des Garçons for Merce Cunningham to Valentino’s “Bal de Couture” designs for New York City Ballet. Lavishly illustrated with both contemporary and historical images, the book features essays by ten fashion experts, who explore various aspects of the reciprocal relationship between dance and fashion, from the liberating effects of the tango to the influence of ballet on Japanese girl culture. Designers featured include Leon Bakst, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Comme des Garçons, Christian Dior, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Halston, Barbara Karinka, Isaac Mizrahi, Rodarte, Yves Saint Laurent, Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy, Valentino, and Iris Van Herpen. This beautiful book explores for the first time the synergy between dance and fashion, and is an original and inspired contribution to the study of both art forms.
The concept of fetishism has recently assumed a growing importance in critical thinking about the cultural construction of sexuality. Yet until now no scholar with an in-depth knowledge of fashion history has studied the actual clothing fetishes themselves. Nor has there been a serious exploration of the historical relationship between fashion and fetishism, although erotic styles have changed significantly and "sexual chic" has become increasingly conspicuous. Marshalling a dazzling array of evidence from pornography, psychology, and history, as well as interviews with individuals involved in sexual fetishism, sadomasochism, and cross-dressing, Steele illuminates the complex relationship between appearance and identity. Based on years of research, her book Fetish: Fashion, Sex & Power explains how a paradigm shift in attitudes toward sex and gender has given rise to the phenomenon of fetish fashion.
From Christian Dior to Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen, many of the greatest fashion designers of the past century have been gay. This provocative book looks at the history of fashion through a queer lens, examining high fashion as a site of gay cultural production and exploring the aesthetic sensibilities and unconventional dress of LGBTQ people to demonstrate the centrality of gay culture to the creation of modern fashion.
"Steele, director of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum, has crafted, with the help of 325 contributors, an authoritative introduction to fashion, the industry, and the issues that hve defined the field. Some 640 articles describe the colorful facets of couture and textiles, from fabrics of chintz, corduroy, and feathers to such garb as aprons, bikinis, and prison dress. There are color plates and nearly 600 black-and-white illustrations. Back matter includes a comprehensive index, a timeline, and a topical outline."--"Reference that rocks," American Libraries, May 2005.
**Volume 3 Occult Dress to Zoran + Index** This reference set provides information on all aspects of clothing and adornment in human culture, from ancient Egyptian wigs to space suits. From ritual garments in societies around the world to fashion models flashing the latest styles on Parisian runways, articles cover the technology, design, and social meaning of dress throughout history. Longer essays on cultural groups and eras appear along side shorter profiles of important people, institutions, textiles, or accessories in a convenient, A-Z sequence. Perspectives from fashion design, anthropology, art history, sociology, business, and history enrich the articles. All entries signed by specialist contributors, include bibliographies and references to related topics. Hundreds of photographs, color insert sections, and line drawings add to the set's appeal for students in high school through college, as well as journalists, designers, and anyone interested in this fascinating facet of everyday life and in this essential field of human creativity.
*Hardcover, clothbound with 2 color silkscreened illustration and bellyband From Azzedine Ala?a, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and Coco Chanel to Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent, and Vivienne Westwood, a century’s worth of fashion greats from the permanent collection of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City are…